On Monday, LVMH introduced that heralded designer Jonathan Anderson was stepping down from his position as artistic director of Loewe. Since becoming a member of Loewe in 2013, Anderson has reworked the Spanish leather-based items firm into a serious cultural title and a high model at LVMH, which additionally owns Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, and Fendi.
The transfer comes after a decade through which Anderson redefined Loewe, turning it right into a $2 billion model that has turn out to be recognized for breaking norms round gender and type in design, in addition to taking part in with custom in a approach his friends weren’t.
“What he has contributed to Loewe goes past creativity,” Sidney Toledano, the chief government of the LVMH Style Group mentioned of Anderson’s affect within the information launch.
The shift comes as Anderson’s time at Loewe appeared to achieve a peak. Final 12 months, Loewe held a blockbuster exhibition at Shanghai Exhibition Centre that may as nicely have been a survey of Anderson’s time on the model. Within the fall, T: The New York Occasions Fashion Journal named Anderson one in every of its “Greats” for the 12 months. (Rumors abound that Anderson will head Dior subsequent.)
Anderson too developed a repute, and located industrial success, by intertwining the worlds of trend and artwork to an unprecedented diploma. Every Loewe season gave the impression to be accompanied by a brand new collaboration with a up to date artist or a nod to a historic one. And Anderson based the Loewe Basis Craft Prize in 2016, a world award for up to date craft artists with a €50,000 award.
Under, an inventory of Loewe’s high artist collaborations underneath Anderson:
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FW23 X Lara Favaretto
Picture Credit score: Gamma-Rapho through Getty Photos When Loewe unveiled its Fall/Winter 2023 assortment in Paris, Anderson tapped Italian artist Lara Favaretto to collaborate on the visuals for a runway present with themes round impermanence and notion. The garments, minimalist frocks with blurry trompe-l’œil prints and different illusionary textures, have been meant to reference the “ghosts” of Loewe’s historical past, in accordance with present notes. Beside them, Favaretto contributed 21 fragile sq. confetti sculptures and, as fashions brushed towards them, their threat of collapse mirrored the gathering’s deal with what fleeting parts can seem like.
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FW24 X Richard Hawkins
Picture Credit score: Getty Photos Loewe introduced its Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear assortment at Paris Style Week, collaborating with LA-based painter Richard Hawkins. Anderson enlisted Hawkins to design digital collages resembling stained glass home windows, with scenes of younger males showing in intimate moments. Seven of Hawkins’ work have been displayed on the partitions, as the gathering drew on references to masculinity: undone clothes, unbuckled belts, and partially coated torsos have been meant to echo Hawkins’ depictions of queer males.
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SS24 X Lynda Benglis
Picture Credit score: Photograph Peter White/Getty Photos When Lynda Benglis, recognized for her poured latex and wax sculptures, unveiled six large-scale bronze ones at Loewe’s Spring/Summer time 2024 in 2023, it wasn’t the one time Anderson would draw on her work. She turned outstanding within the ’60s, related to different feminist artists, after gaining consideration with a provocative 1974 Artforum commercial. On the present, her metallic sculptures have been set towards a procession of fashions in floor-length capes. Different works like Black Widow (2021) and Yellow Tail (2020) hung suspended, with curator Andrew Bonacina, who labored with Benglis on the collaboration, saying that she’d deliberately preserved traces of fingerprints and others textures on the surfaces of the ultimate bronzes. After that present, Benglis and Anderson went on to duplicate the designs in a jewellery collaboration launched that 12 months.
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Fall 2025 X Josef & Anni Albers Basis
Picture Credit score: Courtesy Loewe. Loewe’s Fall Winter 2025 assortment, designed by Jonathan Anderson, debuted at Paris Style Week in collaboration with the Josef & Anni Albers Basis. Offered throughout 17 rooms of the Hôtel de Maisons, the gathering drew from the artist couple’s work. 5 loom-woven, hand-finished coats in cotton and wool highlighted Anni’s textile methods, whereas screen-printed silk skirts and equipment referenced Josef’s Fifties-Seventies “Homage to the Sq.” collection. Loewe’s Puzzle bag, a signature design that has appeared in a number of collections underneath Anderson, included Anni’s weaving patterns. Alongside them, British artist Anthea Hamilton’s large-scale pumpkin from the Fall Winter 2022 present and outsized apple sculptures additionally adorned the resort’s gardens.
